Hands down my favourite release of this wine to date. A rare opportunity to make an expressive and varietal wine without additions.
In the glass
Oatmeal, lemon zest, the smell of a brokengreen branch.
The palate is broad, the core has a rocky density and the finish is fine and persistent. It’s shark-like in shape. Bitter flavours - endive, sorrel, push against the honeyed, satisfying flesh of fruit. Edgy, rocky, mineral flavour keeps the wine on the right side of the flabby/firm equation. These firm and slippery textures contrasted by a slight coarseness of oak.
A real mouthful in a wonderful, Victorian, uninhibited way. Zero Sulphur, very stable. Will age well in bottle / can be enjoyed over several days. Gentle decant is recommended (if you plan on finishing the bottle).
From 1 acre of P58 clone on own roots planted on a north west / south east orientation. Soils are basalt with rusted basalt and quartz. The vineyard is dry grown and sits at 450 - 500m amsl on a gentle northeastern facing slope. It’s a rad spot.
The Rush Brothers vineyard is very astutely managed by John Rush who planted the vines in 1988. I have some involvement with this vineyard throughout the year pruning and helping out when hands are needed. The canopy and yield management is exceptional and thus the use of a systemic fungicide is very limited here. The wound sealant used during pruning was the only deviation from organics during the 2019 growing season.
A near perfect pick. Harder pruning lead to lower yields than usual and this resulted in very powerful and balanced fruit. Ripening moved slowly, flavours accumulating, acids holding beautifully and sugars remaining moderate.
Very gentle whole bunch pressing, manual operation with limited turning. Cold settled in stainless without addition. Fermented in one very old barrique and one second pass (Taransaud) puncheon. The wine holds the oak very comfortably. Ferments are slowed with chilling at the very beginning to allow them to carry on slowly through the winter and following summer. Barrels are topped weekly.
The wine was racked off the majority of lees into stainless steel on boxing day 2019. Remaining in a cool corner of the cellar for a further 7 + months before being bottled by hand under natural cork.